Round 26

Q: When is the best time to train antagonist muscles; the day after climbing (i.e. a rest day from climbing) or on a climbing day?... Read More

Round 25

How long should I rest between training exercises?Q: How long should I rest between training exercises and climbing repetitions? -- Eddi (Levanger, Norway) A: Amount... Read More

Round 24

Can you suggest a good climbing camp?Q: Hi Eric, I read your book Training for Climbing and I think is the best book in the... Read More

Round 23

Is it better to train Fingerboard Repeaters with straight or bent arms?Q: Is it better to train Fingerboard Repeaters with straight or bent arms? -... Read More

Round 22

How long to let A2 pulley injury heal before beginning HIT Workout?Q: I have a recently injured A2 pulley, but am still able to boulder... Read More

Round 21

What can I do to improve my finger strength?Q: Right now I train everyday with pull-ups, Frenchies, and the hangboard (three times a day except... Read More

Round 20

What's a good workout to improve grip strength? Q: What is a good workout to improve grip strength on sloper holds. -- Trevor (B.C. Canada)... Read More

Round 19

What's the best way for a beginner to improve finger strength? Q: I'm new to climbing and I'm wondering how to improve in my finger... Read More

Round 18

What advice to you have for a beginner wanting to enter bouldering comps? Q: I want to train for bouldering competitions and am looking for... Read More

Round 17

What's the best way for a beginning climber to train finger strength? Q: I've heard that beginners shouldn't focus on finger strength training because tendons... Read More