Podcast: The “10-4 Rule” for Effective Projecting & Steady Improvement

A question I'm often asked is....how much time—or attempts—should you put into a project route, before taking a break and working on other climbs. My short answer (with a few caveats) is that it’s best not to get bogged down by long-haul projects—you will improve as a climber faster by sending lots of routes just below your limit, rather than hanging all over (and repeatedly falling off) a single project route that's beyond your limit. In this podcast I'll detail my "10-4 Rule" of projecting, which gives guidelines and solid reasoning to keep your projecting efforts brief....to around 10 attempts over 4 days. (Personally, I halve these amounts and, thus, limit myself to a total of about five attempts over two days.) Podcast rundown: 00:55 - Introduction: How much time should you spend projecting limit routes? 3:12 - The "10-4 Rule" for effective projecting and steady improvement 12:55 - Caveats: When to break the 10-4 Rule 16:20 - Bonus: The "80-20" guideline for outdoor climbing time 20:48 - Ask Eric! 21:22 - Can someone who gets into climbing as a young adult progress to climb at a world-class level? 27:00 - "Last minute" training advice for a slightly out-of-shape route climber going on a climbing trip in one week? 29:50 - Final remarks. Music: Misty Murphy Download all the monthly training podcasts for free by subscribing to the "Eric Horst's Training for Climbing" podcast on iTunes. Please leave a review on iTunes!
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