A question I'm often asked is....how much time—or attempts—should you put into a project route, before taking a break and working on other climbs. My... Read More
The first step to improving your situation—in anything—can be expressed simply as “know thyself.” You cannot progress beyond your current state with the same thoughts... Read More
One of the key principles for effective skill development and motor learning is that you must strive to achieve near-perfection of specific skills and techniques,... Read More
The technical paramount is to climb with perfect economy. Make those two words, perfect economy, your mantra every time you touch the rock. Perfect economy... Read More
I'm often asked to provide a list of the best exercises for training finger (grip) strength. While there are dozens of different exercises (and variations... Read More
In a recent podcast interview with Neely at TrainingBeta, one topic she asked my opinion on was the amount of time (and number of redpoint... Read More
Proprioception is subtle, yet vitally important, physical awareness of your body’s “feel” and movement in space. No matter what you do physically, proprioceptive data from the... Read More
Slowing the Pump Clock: Three Strategies to Prevent the Pump Training to get stronger is a good thing. Climbing in ways that conserve energy and... Read More
The Key to Long-term Improvement: Challenging Yourself in New and Different Ways! Climbing is an extraordinarily complex activity with motor and cognitive skills that take... Read More
