Podcast: Energy System Training – Part 1

This is the first of a two-part in-depth look at energy system training as a conceptual model for organizing your workouts to obtain better results in the long-term. This is a cutting-edge topic with huge potential, especially for advanced and elite climbers, to open up new levels of strength, power, and endurance. By thoughtfully and accurately applying my energy system training guidelines, you will better target individual energy systems to improve cellular signaling and reduce inferring/conflicting signals that may limit positive adaptations in the muscle cells, extracellular matrix & fascia, nervous system, tendons, and cardiovascular system. It’s a rich topic that will take a couple podcasts (or more) to unwind and learn to effectively apply to climbing. Let’s get started!

Podcast Rundown

0:20 – Introduction

1:15 – Mission statement of the Training For Climbing Podcast

7:40 – Request for you to SHARE this podcast!

8:20 – Introducing the “Ask Coach Hörst” special edition of the Training For Climbing podcast…coming in April. Submit your question on Twitter @Train4climbing and please include your name, home town, and years climbing.

9:55 – Overview of the 3 energy system: Anaerobic Alactic (ATP-CP), Anaerobic Lactic, Aerobic

14:20 – Anaerobic Alactic (ATP-CP) System

16:00 – How the Aerobic energy system supports the Alactic system

17:52 – Anaerobic Lactic System (Anaerobic Glycolysis)

20:37 – Aerobic/Oxidative energy system

21:50 – Bertuzzi study of climbers’ relative energy system utilization

24:02 – A deep drill down look at the Alactic energy system

26:30 – Biochemistry of the ATP-CP system. The Löhmann Reaction.

33:22 – Is consuming supplemental creatine (to load intracellular CP) a good thing for climbers?

40:50 – Adaptations of Alactic Training

45:00 – 1. Neural adaptations – What are they? How do you trigger then with training?

48:20 – 2. Architectural adaptations – What are they? How do you properly train them?

54:25 – 3. Tendon remodeling – What is it…and how it can increase force output and power?

59:15 – Alactic system exercise training protocols. How often should you specifically train this energy system?

1:01:00 – Four climbing-specific exercises that can produce Alactic system-related adaptations and increase muscle efficiency.

1:09:22 – Learn the 1st Rule of Eric’s “Train Club”

1:10:42 – Suggested work-to-rest ratio for Alactic training

1:14:00 – Programming alactic focused workouts

1:15:20 – Special Announcement! Eric Horst’s “Ultimate Hangboard” by NICROS!

1:16:54 – Final send off – PLEASE SHARE the T4C Podcast!

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

Music by: Misty Murphy