Video: Hangboard Training for Maximum Grip Strength

Over the past few months I wrote and produced a five-episode training series for Epic-TV. Filmed and edited by Bruce Wilson (Three Peak Films), this series will rolled out into early Winter 2016-17 with a new episode about every two weeks. The first episode (below) presents hangboard training for maximum grip strength. I hope you enjoy it!

In terms of physical attributes, increasing relative peak finger force is central to taking your climbing to the next level—think of this as the finger force you can apply to a rock hold in relation to the body mass the fingers must support. Improving this finger strength-to-weight ratio is possible by increasing the numerator (greater finger strength) and decreasing the denominator (lowering body mass).

In a brand new training series from Epic-TV, climbing coach and international best-selling author Eric Hörst talks us through the steps needed to become an all-round better climber. First up: finger strength!

Copyright © 2016 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved.