FOLLOW US
Hey Eric, I’ve read your books and literally everything else out there. I’m a former marathon runner looking for more structured training. I do a wide range of training for climbing–systems training, HIT strips, hypergravity (rock prodigy), campus, some LDIs, 30 minutes on the wall, not in that order. I also train antagonists and abs religiously. And over the years I’ve gotten stronger, but I feel like I should be able to climb much harder. There are just so many levels above me, so I’ve been shooting for V10 for a while and finger strength is holding me back entirely.
As for injuries, I’ve had elbow issues—pain near the lateral epicondyle (same spot, both arms over the years). When it happens I feel more pain when warmed up. Even got an MRI and there seems to be nothing there. For the last year I’ve been managing it but can’t shake entirely I think it’s residual pain from a somewhat serious tendon tear in the past. Anyway, that’s my history. I’m feeling desperate to reach the next level of climbing, and it seems like my last resort is very high volume climbing. What are your thoughts on training 7 days a week? –Jared (Tennessee)
Hi Jared, Designing a personal program is a very complex thing, and it’s really hard for me to take a shot in the dark without knowing a lot more of background information on you (seeing you climb and doing some testing). At the elite levels, program design is all about nuance—a shotgun, do a lot of everything, approach will not work, and it will waste a lot of time and energy (and tempt injury). The key is cutting the “junk training” from your program and focusing on a few key things that are most holding you back. If bouldering V10 is the primary goal, then doing massive volume makes no sense—building strength and power (rate of force development) is the key…and these aren’t long, nor frequent workouts. Weighted hangboard training for crimp strength and campusing for RFD is paramount; however I am concerned about your elbows getting hurt again, given the stress of this class of exercises. Body mass is another matter to consider when in pursuit of higher strength to power ratio. Of course, the ideal roped climbing program would be quite a bit different….
Hope this gives you a few clues to guide development of a more effective program. Let me know how it goes. Good luck!
Your articles are great, Eric—thanks! It’s hard to find useful articles online that tell you more than just the basics of technique. I have already applied some of the things you mentioned in your articles and it is helping a lot. My question: what are the best resources to improving my technique with hard climbing? I know training can help but I think my real deficit is technique. –Kyle (Missouri)
Hi Kyle, You sound like you have a smart, balanced approach to things. Yes, getting stronger and more powerful is always good (via hangboard and campus training, etc.), but dialing in technique and the mental game will help you get the most out of what strength you currently possess! My book Maximum Climbing is a rich book with lots of gold to mine on these topics, but it’s a pretty intense read. Really, there is no book just dedicated to technique but my Training for Climbing book has a full chapter on it…and the Self-Coached Climber book has good coverage, too. Ultimately, working with a climbing coach in person is the best strategy, since you can get real-time feedback/advice. Do all of the above, and you’ll keep progressing year over year. Good luck, and drop me a note after your next big send!
Hey Eric! Thanks for your awesome tips, they really helped me. I’m now just 2 holds away from sending my 5.12c project! Question: I was wondering how to improve on my problem-solving skills? I have a good coach, but without him I often struggle to figure out the nuance of tricky sequences, both indoors and when climbing outside. Is this normal for a first year climber? Is there anything I can do to help improve this essential mental skill? –Carter (Canada)
Hey Carter, You are doing great! Problem solving comes with….well, lots of solving problems! Therefore, it’s an experience thing—in another year you’ll be much better at it, trust me. Good coaching (like you have) can help accelerate this learning process, but ultimately it does come down to simply climbing a lot—3 or 4 days per week. With regard to indoor climbing and bouldering, I do think watching a lot of videos—like the ABS and World Cup comps—can help open your mind to some of the route setting tricks you’ll likely run into in the future. When it comes to outdoor climbing, there’s no training other than problem solving outdoors.
I am 15 years old and I have been climbing once a week (more in the school holidays) for about 3 years. I am looking to get a hangboard just to supplement with a small bit of training in between climbing sessions. I will not be training monos, but only 3 and 4 finger holds…and only increase difficulty slowly. Is this going to result in injury or is it viable in moderation and with proper warm ups. –Ollie (United Kingdom)
Hi Ollie, At age 15, your growth plates (fingers) aren’t closed yet—not until around age 17 or so—and so any extensive/severe finger board or campus board training is dangerous. That said, doing some weighted pull-ups on jug holds and body weight pull-ups and hangs on deeper pockets (2 and 3 finger) is probably an okay thing to do about twice per week. You may even be okay in doing a couple sets of campus laddering on the largest campus board holds. However, you must limit this type of training to twice per week, and remain focused on improving technique and mental skills with every climbing session. Of course, you can train core as much as you like—be sure to train both front (abs) and back (extension) muscles of the torso—and you should also do some antagonist (push and rotator cuff muscles) training twice per week at part of your at-home supplemental training. Hope this helps—good luck and climb strong!