The shoulders are the most movable and unstable joints, and next to the fingers they are the most at-risk body parts for rock climbers. In... Read More
This is the third in a four-part series on the fingerboard, a staple training tool of many climbers. While the large “bucket” holds found along... Read More
Since its advent in the mid-1980s, the fingerboard has become the standard apparatus for performing pull-ups and straight-armed hangs. What’s more, the fingerboard is economical... Read More
This is the first in a two-part series on age-appropriate training for youth climbers. The overriding goal of a youth training program must be skill... Read More
This is the second in a two-part series on age-appropriate training for youth climbers. (Read Part 1.) The overriding goal of a youth training program... Read More
Knowledge of the basic principles of training empowers you to design a workout program that will be both maximally effective and time efficient. While you... Read More
Todd Skinner turned me on to this exercise back in 1990, and I've since become a believer. Muscular gains from this exercise are reasonably quick... Read More
Strength training results in neural and muscular adaptations that eventually enable muscle action at higher loads. Meanwhile, strength-endurance (a.k.a. anaerobic endurance or the slang term... Read More
When climbers talk about endurance, they are usually referring to anaerobic endurance local to the forearm and pull muscles, not aerobic endurance as needed for... Read More
For many climbers, failure on a route often seems to come down to a lack of local forearm endurance (although poor technique and mental control... Read More
