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“Prehab” Finger Training You Can Do Each Day

Climbing is hard on the fingers. If you climb/train frequently at a rigorous level, then there’s a good chance you’ve experienced finger pain and perhaps even injury. Obviously, then, it would be smart to do anything reasonably possible to reduce your risk of finger injury.

New research has revealed a coupled training-nutritional intervention that can increase tendon strength and health. Based on this research, I have developed a simple 6-minute “protective” finger training protocol that will nourish and strengthen your finger flexor tendons and annular pulleys. Think of this brief training session as “prehab”—because it will enhance collagen synthesis in your tendons and ligaments…and, thus, improve the health and strength of these important structures.

Best of all, this is one climbing exercise that you can do almost daily! Of course, intensive hangboard training protocols must be limited to just a few days per week—they are hard on the muscles, nervous system, and connective tissues and, if you do too much, there’s a good chance you’ll end up injured. But this brief moderate-intensity protective protocol can be utilized daily, either as a rest day “prehab” session or as part of your warm-up routine before your main climbing/training of the day.


Copyright © 2019 Eric J. Hörst