Podcast: Winter/Off-season Training Strategy & Tips

Learn an effective and proven approach to off-season training, broken down for beginner-, intermediate-, and advanced/pro-level climbers. Eric discusses how to handle nagging injuries, refresh motivation, and develop an winter-season training strategy for advancing your climbing next year!

Podcast Rundown

1:00 – Podcast introduction including a discussion of new projects and my T4C YouTube channel.


7:43 – Introduction to…End-of-season & off-season training strategy.

11:40 – Step #1: Take 2 weeks off from training and climbing, then evaluate your physical health. If still experiencing any joint or muscles pain, then get it resolvedsee a doctor or physio. Do NOT try to “climb through” your injury! Learn how to “train around” it.

19:40 – Step #2: Begin an intelligent, well-designed and executed off-season training program that addresses technical & mental weaknesses and physical constraints. Program recommendations will be served up for beginner, intermediate and advanced-level climbers.

22:08 – The best off-season training approach for beginner climbers is….

27:52 – Eric explains his “training target” analogy.

28:15 – Intermediate program recommendations (Not just for Intermediateslisten closely!)

37:00 – The importance of training the rotator cuff and scapular stabilizer musclesnot just for injured climbers!

38:06 – Learn how the brain acts as a governor limiting your grip strength in body positions that severely stress the shoulder joint. Yes, a stronger rotator cuff = stronger fingers! Specific exercise guidelines are found in chapter 6 of Training for Climbing.

41:32 – Advanced/Pro-level off-season training tips. Physical testing and expert coaching is essential to hit the bull’s eye of your training targetvital for opening up the next grade.

48:00 – Importance of seeing the big picture (and mission), while nailing the critical training details (the bull’s eye!).

49:10 – Warning about training too much, thus exceeding your recovery ability…and getting lackluster results…and risking injury.

51:30 – Wrap up and closing comments.

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Music by: Misty Murphy