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I have climbed indoors and outside a handful of times, and I have thoroughly enjoyed it each time. I’d like to begin some formal training–any suggestions on classes (I live on Long Island) and in particular your thoughts on the AMC highly selective rock training class given only once a year from the NY/NJ chapter? I seem to fit the criteria. Also, I have enjoyed your book on climbing indoors–thank you! –Doug (New York)
Welcome to climbing, Doug! It’s a great sport…and it can be a life sport! A few classes (AMC or other) is a good way to get started. A climbing gym is also a good way to learn movement skills and to meet other people to climb with. Your first year or two of climbing should focus on developing movement and mental skills, and not flogging yourself with too much climbing-specific training—let the climbing (if it’s regular) build your strength initially. My book will help guide you in how to arrange your schedule. Of course, climbing outside is a wonderful thing…and the nearby Shawangunks is a great place to learn outdoor climbing. Look into a guided group you could join for a weekend of outdoor climbing at the Gunks—you’ll have a blast!
In my 5 years as a climber I have periodically taken breaks from the sport because of my job. I am back at it from my most recent break, which lasted about 6 months. I’ve now been climbing 3 to 4 days per week for the last month and a half and I’m almost completely back to my old ability level. I have recently been experiencing some joint discomfort on the middle knuckles of my middle and ring finger on my left hand. There isn’t any pain with it, just a feeling of tension. I have also noticed that my range of motion in those two fingers is slightly restricted when I make a fist in comparison to the same two fingers of my other hand. My question to you is whether or not I have a condition that will worsen over time and eventually bring my climbing to a halt? Or if this is a somewhat normal occurrence for climbers? Thanks for all of the help you’ve already given me through your publications. –Spencer (Utah)
Hey Spencer, That’s a tough questions to answer. Climbing can cause some mild joint pain and “tension”, and you are probably not hurting yourself as long as the condition isn’t progressive (doesn’t get worse). A worsening condition could be overuse injury to the tendon sheath. Of course, any acute/sharp pain could be a more serious tendon injury. But if the condition is infrequent and mild, then just ice it after a workout and do your typical post-climbing stretching. When in doubt, however, error on the side of safety and end a climbing session early (and consider seeing a doctor) if pain becomes more significant and noticeable in everyday activities.
I was climbing up to my comfort and last year I started to train quite hard, Well, when I was at my best, I fell in the gym and injured my foot, so the whole last year I was just toproping on one leg and did some months only upper-body exercises. Now I’ve started to lead climb again, but the problem I now have is that I’m so scared of falling! I now shake and my mind like blocks at the crux and so on. Do you think I can climb again so bravely like before? What can I do to get relaxed and climb free again? –Sanny (Bulgaria)
Hi Sanny, Sorry to hear about your injury. Making a comeback can sometimes be challenging for your mind–many climbers experience this, and you will work through it with time. But it can be a tough battle for some climbers to overcome the fear. I’ve written a lot on this subject—you can learn more at www.MaximumClimbing.com Anyway, focus on risk management and getting yourself to push upward in “safe fall” situations–climbs that you KNOW you cannot get hurt on. Good luck, my friend!
Hi Mr. Horst, I am 37 years old and new to climbing. I live in Europe and I used to be a part-time cycling professional…so I know a few things about how the body works. I am naturally strong, but I don’t know how to make a training program for myself. Can you give me some advice? – Konstantinos (Greece)
Hello Konstantinos! With your background in cycling, I think you probably have a good sense of how to train your body…and get enough rest and recovery time. Since you are relatively new to climbing, it’s most important that you learn climbing skills and constantly work to climb more efficiently–learning to relax your arms and hands, and not overgripping the rock and pumping out. Climbing is a skill sport, first and foremost! Of course, training your muscles is important, but for a beginning climber simply climbing a few days per week will train the muscle—after a year or two of climbing you can begin more climbing-specific exercises to supplement your climbing. But you must not climb and train for climbing more than a total of 4 days per week—rest and recovery time is important, so that your muscles and tendons can adapt to the unique strains of rock climbing.
Hi Eric, First of all thank you for your TFC book! I started climbing many years ago, focusing mostly on alpine and ice climbing. Several years ago, career and family priorities trumped climbing and I turned my attention to xc mountain bike racing and ski touring which was easier to fit in. Now at the age of 41 my kids are older, my career is in a great place and I finally have the time to return to climbing. I didn’t realize how much I missed it! My goals now are different than when I was younger – maybe I’m doing things backwards, but now I am interested how far I can push myself in sport climbing and hard trad climbing.
A couple of issues. First of all, my body type is classic mesomorph. I’m 5’10” and 184 lbs with low body fat. This is my weight on the podium at marathon xc bike and 50km Nordic ski races. I am a member at my local gym, which I love, but I cannot make it there for every workout. Fortunately, I can build a basement gym. I have a built a few training walls over the years and this is a good chance to get it right. I have decent though not an infinite amount of space to work with so every element has to be high yield. I have a 7’8” ceiling. I should be able to build a 5-strip HIT system wall as well as a campus board. Any other suggestions to incorporate into this design phase? Fingerboard? Pull-up bar? Free weights?
Given what I have told you, what would you suggest to take my climbing to a new level? I am back to climbing 11+, in the gym anyway, but I would love to climb 12’s. I’m quite goal directed, I actually like training, and I work well with direct coaching. Any suggestions for a climbing coach? Thank you for your help and inspiration! –Martin (Canada)
Hi Martin—welcome back to climbing! I know the feeling you are having….I got a second wind in my mid 40s and I’m now climbing almost as hard as I did in my 20s! Anyway, I feel you can certainly push into 5.12 sport climbing, even with your “normal” body weight being 180 – 190 lbs. I had a client/friend in AZ who had a similar powerlifter’s body and over a few years he pushed up to sending some 5.12 (at ~185lbs).
Anyways, you obviously know your body situation and I wouldn’t give it another thought (unless you go over 200,in which case you may want to do some running to get back closer to 190). As for specific training…HIT wouldn’t be bad, but I don’t think it’s essential. I think you want to get on a good training cycle, focusing on strength/power (bouldering and similar) for a couple weeks, then shifting to more of an endurance phase for a few weeks of longer gym routes and interval training. I would stay with a moderate amount of aerobic activity as well, whether it’s running, biking, etc. It’s hard for me to give more specific advice, but I do think you would benefit by finding a climbing coach in your area to work with. Good luck, and let me know how it goes!