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Hi Eric, I’m a 17-year-old Iranian climber, and I’ve been climbing for 6 years. Over this time I managed to climb some 8a projects and I can onsight some 7b routes. I have a great issue in my climbing, however, it that I don’t recover much when I try to rest on the route I’m climbing (maybe 10% recovery if I’m lucky). I’d like to ask you if there is anything I can do to improve my mid-climb recovery? Thanks! – Vala (Iran)
Hi Vala, Here are the two best ways to improve recovery rate at a mid-climb rest position: 1. Get stronger! Developing maximum strength (weighted fingerboard training and weighted pull-ups) will increase your strength reserve–thus, the rest holds will feel bigger and you’ll recover faster. 2.) Increase your aerobic capacity. (Yes, you heard that right!) It’s the aerobic energy system that drives the recovery process. Therefore, do some running (5km about 3 days per week) and also do some endurance climbing on easier routes (climb for volume, not difficulty, one day per week). This kind of training done for 3 to 6 months will improve your recovery ability.
Eric, I’ve started a training regimen where I’m doing 3 hangboard workouts a week, 3 core/pushup workouts, 2 antagonist workouts, 1 bouldering session and two or three cardio activities. At 4 months in I started to develop my usual lateral epicondylitis. I took the last week off and only focused on core/pushups, cardio and antagonists. I’ve also now had two physical therapy appointments that have been going well. Do you have any suggestions for an experienced climber that’s been off for a little while but it trying to get strong again? –Jeff (New York)
Hi Jeff, Sounds like you are training smart and reacting appropriately to your elbow pain. Lateral epicondylitis is a pesky condition, and some people are just more prone to getting it (perhaps due to unique biomechanical factors). With this in mind, you must remain vigilant and proactive. If you aren’t already, you want to do a LOT of stretching of your wrist/finger extensors. Do these several times a day, and before/after every climbing session. Also some deep tissue massage of the forearm muscles (the extensors just beyond the tendon that’s problematic) can help “release” chronic muscle tension that’s pulling on the tendon. Many climbers have painful trigger points in the upper half of the forearm extensors. Use a braced finger or thumb of your other hand and feel around for a sore spot in this muscle and work to loosen this spot over the course of weeks (so ramp up the massage gradually). Be sure never to rub the sore tendon itself! Consider investing in an Armaid device to enhance your therapy.
In terms of rehab, strengthen the wrist/finger extensor muscles by doing the lowering (eccentric) phase of revere wrist curls. With your forearm on a table (or other) and wrist hanging off the table, grasp a dumbbell (~10 lbs) palms down. Instead of lifting the dumbbell as you normally might, use your other hand to help lift the dumbbell to the top position—then left go with free hand and lower the dumbbell slowly (5 second count) with the (injured) hand that’s grasping the dumbbell. Repeat this 10 times. Do two sets each side 3 or 4 days per week. Hope this advice helps. Let me know how it goes.
I have been having an issue for several years now, and I was wondering if you have any input. Here’s the short version: It first occurred at the Red River Gorge after climbing a bunch of pumpy routes. I went to sleep and woke up with swollen, very inflexible, and cramping forearms. I could not hold myself on a bar–note that I am not saying pull-up, but I actually could not hold my weight. I was climbing about 12a the day before and did not get back to that level for about four months. That morning, my urine was brown. Since then, it has occurred several times generally following endurance oriented routes, but has occurred after extreme training regimens. From all my amateur research, I do believe its rhabdo leading to comp syndrome. I’m concerned now that my forearms have so much scar tissue in them that it is beyond repair. What are your thoughts on this…and what I can do to correct the problem. –TJ (California)
Hey TJ, Sorry to hear about your problem. I’ve heard from thousands of climbers in the past 20 years, but your storyline is a first! What you propose (rhabdo) sounds possible, but not being an MD I don’t want to “confirm” your diagnosis—it’s possible there could be something else going on. Therefore, I suggest you consult a doctor if you have another severe episode.
I kind of doubt you have permanent scar tissue, and I would guess you can get back to hard route climbing. Then again, perhaps you have a genetic intolerance to the physical stress that climbing a lot of steep sport routes presents? Everyone is different. Also, perhaps there were other things at play that day at the Red—like significant dehydration? Long-term, I suggest you try to gradually expand your exposure to steep, pumpy climbing….and hope you never repeat that bad experience.
Hi Eric, First, Thank you for your books, articles, and everything! A coach has just recommended to me that, because of my gap between climbing skills and physical capabilities, I should limit supplemental training (like pull-ups or HIT and such), and just dedicate my time to actual climbing of boulder problems and routes. Do you think it’s reasonable to limit supplemental training to almost “zero”, or can I continue with some strength exercises in addition to my climbing time? –Homayoon
Hello Homayoon! Your coaches advice is pretty good, in terms of always putting climbing technique and movement skills a higher priority than getting stronger. That said, it sounds like you are a pretty good climber, and I do think you should still do some supplemental exercises—just not at the expense of climbing time. So do your climbing workouts on the wall or cliff, then at the end of the session you can do 20 to 30 minutes of supplemental strength training (pulling exercises, hangboard, campus board, and core exercises). Do these exercises 2 or 3 days per week—again, always get in a quality climbing session first. Hope this helps! Good luck, my friend.
First off: I’m mainly into bouldering, and I aspire to send those really hard problems that only the ”freaks” in gym can send. It’s clear to me that this will not be possible to do without a systematic training. I am a very hard-working man by nature, but I have some difficulties: I don’t know if the training I designed is correct; worse yet, no one in my gym wants to train with me, which is a big blow for my motivation. I would highly appreciate any advice. Thanks! –Rosti (Germany)
Hi Rosti! Does your gym have a coach that you could hire? Personal instruction and guidance is the best. It’s impossible for me to give you a program via email, but consistency is important—getting significant gains demands at least 3 days per week of bouldering and supplemental training. Bouldering with friends is a fun way to work for new moves and strength, however, some targeted strength/power training is important, too, using weighted pull-ups, weighted fingerboard hangs, and campus board, etc. I suggest you pick up a copy of the Gimme Kraft book…and try to integrate some of those exercises. Wishing you good luck and happy, hard climbing!