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Hey Eric, I’ve been wondering about the possibilities of reaching a high level of bouldering (V8-V10ish) after starting climbing at a relatively late age. I just turned 25 and have been climbing just under 2 years. I climb quite a bit and hit the gym and do climbing specific workouts regularly, so I’m in fairly good shape. I’m absolutely in love with climbing and I hope to keep getting stronger. I see these people climb V10 and they’re always people who have been climbing for 10+ years, but then I see Courtney woods who has been climbing half that and crushing V9s. So my question: Is it possible to still reach that sort of level after starting so late? –Cody (Arizona)
Hi Cody, First, you aren’t old by any stretch–you absolutely can continue to improve for many years to come! That said, the improvement curve is steepest during the first couple of years and progressively flattens thereafter, so each next V-grade is harder and harder to achieve. Obviously genetics—and coaching/training–become major factors at the highest levels of all sports, and in climbing they are certainly determining factors as well. In your case, you need to train smarter and smarter each season and realize that injury is always a threat as you climb and train harder. Again, some people are more prone to injury due to genetic factors and history of past sports injury. Anyway, study up—read all the training books out there!—and strive to become a good self-coach….targeting your training on your limiting constraints. It’s a complex endeavor, but in bouldering the common limitations are finger strength, power, technique, flexibility, and core strength. Select appropriate exercises to train-up in each of these areas and you’ll be on the fast track to the next grade! Good luck, and let me know how it goes!
I recently popped my A-4 pulley tendon in my ring finger. I can still climb on it, but with pain. I figured I’ll take a couple weeks off. I’m just worried about the upcoming season, so I’m wondering if I should rest it longer or keep training? I’m stronger than ever, just the other day I sent my first V7. How long will it take to heal? –Eric (Canada)
Hi Eric, Pulley injuries to the ring finger are quite common, especially among people who boulder hard. There are different degrees of “strain” or “tear”, and it’s impossible for me to say just how bad yours is injured—however pain and swelling is generally a good indicator. I would discourage you from climbing if there is any palpable swelling or if the pain is ever more than a “2” on a scale of 1 to 10. Minor strains can resolve in a few weeks, whereas more severe tears can take months, especially if you try to climbing through the injury. BTW, if you are resting it (and not climbing for a few weeks), you do still want rehab the finger daily with some light resistance squeezing of a rubber donut (or similar) and even do some light stretching and massage, as this helps the healing process. But do nothing that causes pain. If the pain is a 1 or 2, however, you may be able to climb on it with care–avoid pockets and max crimping with that finger. Error on the side of caution–get this injury healed before your best climbing weather arrives!
Hey Eric, I enjoy my job as a route-setter at the local indoor gym, however, due to a busy work schedule setting routes, I cannot rest according to the plan outlined in your book, Training For Climbing. Add to that an intense desire to climb outside as much as possible, and there isn’t much time to rest. I’ve seen improvement in my climbing, but it is slow. I feel like my body has accustomed itself to my current setting and climbing schedule, but if I try to train, I either get injured or feel too tired/unpsyched to climb outside. Do you know of any training routines or tips for route-setters? We all just feel like we are stuck at our current grades. Perhaps that is the curse for a job we love so much. Thanks for your help! –Zack (Colorado)
Hi Zach, I can appreciate your situation—I get this email frequently, and it is a real problem. Of course, getting stronger (and more powerful) demands specific training stimuli followed by adequate rest periods during which your body adapts and gets stronger. Therefore, I consider 2 days of rest per week the bare minimum—obviously a tough goal for you to meet—as there is no way to work around the biological need for recovery time. You’ll just need to figure a clever way to get your setting and training done on the same days, say, 3 or 4 days per week. This will leave you with 2 rest days and 1 or 2 days to go climbing outside. Good luck, and let me know how it goes!
I have your Training For Climbing book, and now I have finally decided to do a bit of serious training! My goal is to develop my core, antagonist muscles, and to finally improve my pull-up strength! Currently, I can do only 2 or 3 pull-ups with proper form. How many pull-ups should I be able to do in becoming a better climber? Thanks! –Sally (Denmark)
Hi Sally, Performing a consistent training program will yield large gains in pull-up strength—make your short-term goal to reach 6 to 8 solid pull-ups within two months (longer-term I bet you can build to 12 or more pull-ups!). I suggest you do 5 sets of pull-ups per workout with a 3 minute rest in between sets. For starters, for each set try to do 2 or 3 pull-ups in a row and then step up (on a chair) to the top position and lower slowly down through 2 or 3 more pull-ups for a total of 5. Then take your 3 minute rest. Doing this 5 times gets you 25 total reps in the workout. You can do this workout 3 days per week. Of course, you would benefit from additional core and antagonist training, on top of any actual climbing you do. Hope this helps, and let me know how it goes!