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I am curious what types of weights to use to add to your body while training? I have seen belts and vests. Is there a “best” method that you recommend? –Dennis (Colorado)
Hi Dennis, In adding weight for actual climbing (bouldering, system training, Treadwall), you want to add the weight as near to your center of mass as possible so that it doesn’t hinder climbing technique and the feel of proper movement. Consequently, a weight belt is the way to go. Buy one or two 10-pound weight belts with adjustable weights and you’ll be good to go. For pull-ups and hangboard training, which often requires higher weight loads, it’s better to use a 60-pound vest (with adjustable weights) or to hang weights (free weight plates, dumbbells, or Kettle bells) from the belay loop of your harness or from a dips belt. If training with more than 60 pounds this will be the only method that works. Regardless of the method, adding weight is a powerful training tool. Good luck!
I’ve had issues with tendinosis of the lateral epicondyle on my right arm. After taking 4 months off and then returning to climbing the condition returned. The pain is less intense than it once was but I’m getting numbness in the same place seemingly at random times. What does this numbness mean? How do I treat it? –Geordie (Canada)
Hi Geordie, Sorry to hear about your situation—I get similar emails monthly, so it’s a somewhat common problem. The lateral tendinosis can be a pesky—stressed tissues place strain on the tendon and the muscle adhesions lose circulation and can atrophy and even effect nearby nerves. In your current condition, with reduced pain, that’s a step in the right direction, but I suspect there’s still healing to be done. Taking corrective measures—rather than just resting it more—is the key at this point. In terms of rehab, do lots of stretching of the finger/wrist extensors and, in terms of exercise, do the eccentric movement (lowering phase) of a dumbbell reverse wrist curl. Do two sets of 20 reps three days per week. Stretch the finger/wrist extensor muscles at least three times per day, every day. Also, I STRONGLY suggest you purchase an Armaid—this device is worth every penny of the $99. This device uniquely lets you attack the adhesions and problem muscle tissue in the extensors that are at the common root of your lateral elbow problems. Many people can completely “fix” themselves within a month or two of Armaid use, although I use it daily to aid post-workout recovery and as pre-hab. Fabulous device. Visit www.Armaid.com, and tell Terry I sent you. Good luck!
I’m looking for a training regime—for an hour or so, three days per week—that I can stick to after work. I’d like a bouldering type workout that will maximize my abilities when I hit the ropes at the crag. HELP! –Tam (Arizon)
Hi Tam, That’s a tough question to answer in a short email—really, you need to engage a coach to work with you in person to design a program that targets your limiting constraints. But here’s my two cents worth: Generally, it always helps to get stronger and more powerful—therefore, doing some climbing-specific strength exercises (weighted pull-ups, campus ladding, weighted fingerboard hangs, etc.) are likely to help you most. Of course, redpointing harder at the crags also requires elevating your technical and mental game—these two areas can yield big improvements, even in folks who don’t have a lot of time to train. The bottom line: train for strength and power, but strive to improve movement quality and your mental skills…and you’ll surely be climbing harder on a rope this season!
I can do max three sets of 4 to 6 pull-ups on a good day. I’m a 42 year old female and pretty fit. I am tall and lean so am naturally more of an endurance than strength person. I’m working grade 25 routes, and I can usually do the moves OK. I often do more advanced pull exercises (uneven lock offs and frenchies) with one or both feet supported up on the back of a chair, but quite a way in front of me. Is this going to be effective? It still feels hard after a number of reps. Thanks! –Loisue (Australia)
Hi Louise, Your training adaptations are excellent—working lock-offs with some foot support is a smart and very effective way to do things. You might experiment with doing 3 sets of 3 reps of standard pull-ups with some weight added to your body (such as a 5 or 10 lb weight around your waist). This could be a very effective way to “shock” your body and, hopefully, it will respond by building your strength so that you can soon to 10 to 12 pull-ups at bodyweight. In this way, you’ve gained both strength and muscular endurance! I hope this helps—good luck!!