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Hi Eric! Thank you so much for the articles you write, they are awesome! I read the two parts of your article named “training muscular endurance” and found it very good. My question is whether I can perform these methods (two or more) in the same day of strength training in the gym. I train 2 day per week in the gym and on the weekends I climb on the rock. It is better to focus the endurance in one week and in the other week focus on strength? Or I can train both in the same day or week? –Gabriel (Brazil)
Hi Gabriel, Long term, it’s very hard (not as effective) to train two things (strength/power and endurance) at the same time. You might do this short term, for a week or two, between climbing trips, however for long-term gains you want to periodize your training. So it would be best to train strength/power for a couple weeks, and then switch focus to endurance training for a couple weeks. There are several different programs to go about this. BTW, if you do double up your training in a two-a-day workout scheme, I suggest you do endurance in the morning (low-intensity aerobic climbing or running) and then do your strength/power workout in the afternoon or evening. Good luck, and climb strong!
Eric, I’ve only been climbing for a short while but I love it! What is the best way for climbing on overhangs routes, say, from 30 degrees to roof? I am still building strength in my forearms and understand this will take time but what is the most efficient way to climb these sort of problems? I have read a bit about the back step and twist-lock, and I’m trying to work on that. Any advice would be great. –Vincent (Australia)
Hi Vince! Welcome to the sport—isn’t climbing great?! Physically, steep routes and roofs demand a lot of core strength, so get to work on that. Train core at least 3 days per week, and be sure to train both front (abs) and back (hip extension) core exercises. Of course, steep routes also require special techniques (feet and body positions) that will take time to learn correctly and efficiently—a good coach can help you learn key points. Most importantly is to move quickly from one rest position to the next, and to climb with high economy…which usually requires locks of twisting, backstepping, and heel hooking to unload the arms as much as possible. But as a new climber, you should spend more time refining your movement and technique on near-vertical terrain and only do a few overhanging routes per session (so as not to overstress your shoulder, elbows, and fingers).
Hello Eric, I have a critical question to ask you about campus board training. I have been climbing for only 5 months, and my bouldering level is V3. Lately, I started trying to climb up the campus board in my gym and, after a few days, I have managed to go all the way up, one by one. I feel that I’m really improving in it, and also improving my finger strength and forearm muscle. The thing is, I read some of your articles (and others) that expressed that campus training is an advanced technique and that beginners may get injured. Well, I’ve been doing this for almost two weeks and I feel fine. So I’m asking you if it’s okay if I do 3 sets at every end of climbing day or is it too risky? –Yuval (Israel)
Hi Yuval, Yes, you need to be very careful campusing at this time. You might be able to “ladder” up the board a few times and not get injured (be sure to do it before you are overly fatigued), but to do anything more dynamic (like double dynos or large lunging moves skipping rungs) is very risky, since your tendons will need several years to become strong enough to take the dynamic stress. Many climbers get injured using the campus board in their first few years of climbing—a much smarter approach is to focus on developing technique and skills and, physically, to train your core, antagonist (push and rotator cuff muscles), and general climbing fitness (climbing endurance and pulling strength). Good luck and have fun, my friend!
Eric, I just started climbing 3 months and everything was going fine until one day, after climbing at the crags, I started experiencing pain in the joints nearest to my fingertips. I haven`t done any campus boarding whatsoever, all I ever did was just climb at the gym and at the crags. I stopped climbing for 3 weeks and the pain disappeared, but then, after I began climbing again, the pain sometimes returns. So my question is: what could be the possible reason for this and what kind of specific training can I do in order to strengthen my fingers? –Dobri (Bulgaria)
Hi Dobri, Pain in the first joints of the fingers can happen from overuse of the crimp grip, especially in newer climbers who haven’t adapted to the stresses of climbing. There’s nothing special you can do to stop this pain, other than to reduce crimp gripping and strive to grab more holds with an open handed (extended) grip. Ultimately, it can take 1 to 3 years (or more) for your finger joints and tendons to become accustom to the unique strains of climbing—pushing too hard to fast into the higher grades will often lead to injury. So go easy on it for now, avoid routes with tiny holds (that must be crimped) and think long-term in terms of progress. Focus on developing new climbing skills, climbing with more economy, and taking enough rest days between climbing to keep finger pain at a minimum. Good luck, my friend!
Hey Eric, I just got the HIT strip system for a home wall, and was wondering if you’d recommend putting the holds any closer together than 18” for shorter people. I’m 5’9”, but my fiancé is 5’1” and I think that she’d have a little trouble reaching the holds. –Erwin (California)
Hi Erwin, Perhaps reduce to 16”, but with decent footholds in place to use I’m sure you and your wife can make the full 18” reach. Remember to build your feet and twist your hips a little with each reach, just as you would on a steep climb. Climb with only body weight for the initial workouts and develop all the grip positions to the point you can go up and down twice for each grip. Then you can start adding weight at 5 to 10 lb increments (but just do 10 to 12 total hand moves per set). For home use, the HIT strip’s texture is a bit aggressive….so you may want to sand off some texture where your fingers wrap over the strips, but not where the first pad of your finger grips it. When I use heavy weighs, I even tape my fingers to protect the skin. You’ll sort it all out with experimentation. Have fun!