FOLLOW US
Hello Eric! I’m getting back into climbing after a fairly long absence (8 years); I began climbing at age 12 and climbed (and competed) at a high level into my early 20s. I started climbing again last month, and I’m mainly focusing on regaining endurance and getting my technique back (and not getting injured). My main question is how to safely get back into the sport while maximizing progression. Would it be best to just do more general climbing for the next year or so, plus cardio and core exercises, before starting a more formal climbing specific training plan? My long-term goal is to see if I can return to climbing up near the 5.14 level. Thanks! –Jamie (Missouri)
Hi Jamie, Your instinct is correct—be careful your first year back climbing. Your technique and mental/tactical skills will come back fast, and so you’ll be able to climb harder by the week and month. Unfortunately the many-year layoff means your tendons have atrophied somewhat, so you do need to be careful crimping and stressing your shoulders. Hopefully you are genetically blessed with strong tendons—if you never injured them climbing 5.13 the first time around, then you probably are. Anyway, I suggest you stick with the climbing for volume strategy for the most part (for first 6 months or so), while at the same time introducing some strength training exercises such as weighted pull-ups, a small amount of weighted fingerboard hangs (on a 14-18mm edge), various core exercises, and other general strength training (push muscles, rotator cuff, etc.). If time allows, try to climb 3 days per week (do the climbing-specific strength training at the end of the session) and do 2 days of general training (push, aerobics, if you like) on climbing rest days. After a ramp up period of 6 months, you might want to change things to periodically focus more on bouldering, strength, and power. You’ll want to progress carefully. Consider alternating every other month or so between submaximal volume climbing and near-maximal bouldering/strength/power. I hope this advice helps you get back climbing strong—have fun, and let me know how it goes!
Dear Eric, It has been recommended to me to do knee raises from a dead hang on easy rungs of a campus board to build core strength. But my shoulders hurt in this position, possibly related to impingement (one shoulder was fixed 4 years ago). My question is: what do you think of core training in this way, and what alternative exercises can you suggest? –EJ (Colorado)
Hi EJ, I disagree with whomever recommend you do that exercise as core training. First, you have a history of shoulder injury, so unless you have developed sufficient strength in your scapular stabilizers, doing a lot of straight-arm hanging is just asking impingement! Alternative core exercises include planks, crunches, various TRX slinger trainer exercises, and deadlifting. Yes, deadlifts are an excellent core exercise to do twice per week, if you have access to free weights. Proper technique is essential, but deadlifting heavy weigh arguably activates your core better than most any other exercise. Give it a try!
When I train to increase my lactic threshold in running, will this training also increase my threshold in climbing? Another question: how can I train most effectively to climb harder, while also training to remain a decent runner? –Michael (Canada)
Michael, Lactic threshold for climbing is very different from running—in climbing it’s obviously the muscles of the arms that suffer acidosis and the pump, so you need to train for adaptions in the arms (build capillaries, mitochondria, intramuscular buffering, etc) to improve climbing endurance. While your VO2 from running will aid your recovery between climbs, it won’t help much with actual climbing. Furthermore, excessive amounts of running (say, more than 20 miles or 30km per week) may begin to hurt your climbing, due to both general fatigue and the catabolic (breakdown) effects on your climbing muscles. For climbing-specific training, focus on developing more strength and power—try to boulder twice per week and do a few supplement strength exercises such as weighted pull-ups and weighted fingerboard hangs. Some additional antagonist and rotator cuff training would be prudent, too. You can learn all about this in my book, Training for Climbing.
Hey Eric, I picked up your ‘How to climb 5.12’ book a few months ago–it’s great! One thing I’m having trouble figuring out, however, is a weekly training schedule. I am super busy and sometimes am not sure what to do on my free time as far as getting better and stronger. I do have a climbing gym membership here in Bend, Oregon and live about 30 minutes from Smith Rock. Your suggestions are much appreciated! –Paul (Oregon)
Hi Paul, You’re a lucky many to have the great resources of the Bend gym and Smith Rock so close! So your only limitations are time, motivation, and staying uninjured (so train and climb with care). My book, Training for Climbing, provides structured training plans to help you integrate climbing days with strength, endurance, and antagonist training. Self-coaching is a sort of art form, which you’ll need to suss out over time by reading and applying…and then measuring the results and adjusting your approach, as needed. Engaging a coach is a good idea, too, to get an objective evaluation and personalize training program—inquire at the Bend gym. Good luck!
Hey Eric, I’m 13 years old, and I have been climbing for almost a year now—I can lead 5.11d and boulder V4/5. I’m on a junior team with a very good coach. We train 3 days a week (intensely), and I end up going a 4th day each week with my dad. Anyways, I’m wondering what I should do for training on the 4th day of the week (hangboard training?). –Carter (Canada)
Hi Carter, Sounds like you are doing great! At age 13, you are beginning your growth spurt which will continue until age 15 and 16, so you really shouldn’t be doing much hangboard nor campus board (the growth plates in your fingers can easily be injured). Some Campus “laddering” is probably safe as long as you do it in a controlled manner, but only do a few up and down sets. Really, I think the best things to do on your 4th day are: 1.) climbing unlike what you do on the other 3 sessions—so if the other 3 sessions are mostly bouldering, then do roped climbing on 4th day….or vice versa. 2.) you can really benefit from doing some basic weight training as you begin your growth spurt—my boys lift twice per week, focusing on pushing exercises and leg/hip extension, which will build you a nice balance body that will resist injury as you begin to crush the high grades in the coming years!