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Hello Eric, I would like to express my enormous appreciation towards all that you are doing. Stumbling into the NICROS Training Center, and afterwards reading a few of your books got me very aware and excited about my training. You opened my eyes that sometimes there are smarter and more efficient ways to progress than just go and climb to get pumped, whatever you feel like it.
Having said that, I would really like to hear your opinion with regards to two things: 1) Due to a weakness in my pinch, I was considering to train it using a wooden blocks of different widths on which I can hang the weights. Would this be a good way to train finger and pinch strength or am I missing something? 2) There is a big discrepancy between my sport climbing and my bouldering level. I climb 5.12c in a few tries, whereas some 6C boulders feel just impossible. I believe I am missing power and explosiveness, as I am trying to do everything statically. Would that be a good approach to tackle this biggest weakness of mine? Thank you very much in advance and wish you all the best to you and your family! –Asparuh (Netherlands)
Thanks for your kind remarks, Asparuh. Sounds like you are a smart climber…and ready to ramp up your training! First, people who rope climb harder than they boulder tend to lack power and contact strength (there’s some good research on this). Training to build strength (weighted pull-ups and lockoffs, and weighted fingerboard hangs on open crimp grip) and increase power (bouldering and a small bit of campus training) will help improve your bouldering.
As for pinch training, concentrate mostly on wide pinches—yes, you can use thick blocks of wood to hang from or to lift with (as in my video). I suggest you train pinch grip and also hangboard with crimp grip twice per week. The schedule you propose sounds very good—just be sure your volume days don’t turn into pumpy hard climbing sessions!
Hey Eric I was wondering whether I should train towards a few more advanced strength moves (such as the front lever or muscle up) or continue my schedule as I have it now (3-4 days a week climbing with 1-2 antagonist workouts per week)? As a climber of 1.5 years (5.12-/V5) would these exercises benefit my climbing or should I stick to what I usually do? –Carter (Canada)
Hi Carter, Your current program has excellent balance, so stay with that as your base. If you want to add something new, you should probably ease into some fingerboard training (first pad finger edge, open crimp with some added weight). Might be a bit early for levers—I would suggestion added some rotator cuff and scapular stabilizer training for several months before advancing to front levers, campus training, and other advanced exercises. Also, do a few different types of core training, including wideshield wipers, reverse planks, crunches, and curl-ups. Do all this and you’ll be ready for add some levers in three to six months.
Hi Eric, I am a climbing trainer in Norway. I have just challenged myself and written an article (in Norwegian) about children and lead climbing, with the big question on: When can children start to lead climb. I did a research and wrote emails to several producers on climbing equipment and asked them: When can children start to lead climb? I got many good answers and I the learned that it is not the age that is important, but who is belaying them, what belay equipment is used, and the child’s climbing skills. What are your thoughts about an age limitation…such as needing to be at least 10-years-old to lead climb? – Jeanette (Norway)
Hi Jeanette, IMO, there should be no set rule—it’s very much a matter of the kid’s experience. For example, does the youth have the ability to assess the consequences of falling (a ”safe fall” situation versus “not safe” situation); has the youth climbed enough routes (100s) on top rope to be able to ascend routes smoothly and with confidence; can the youth effectively clip the rope into quick draws from different body positions. Of course, a good belayer and mentor is essential, too.
My boys both did their first leads at age 6 years and 10 months—on short, vertical smooth limestone climbers outside, so the falls would be safe, if they took one. Despite being capable of 6c, their first leads where much easier—and they led many easy routes before pushing into somewhat harder grades where they might fall. By age 10 they “got it”….and began leading 7c+ …and 8b+ at age 11. Of course, every child is different—and an overbearing coach or parent should never push a child into lead climbing. Some kids may not be ready to lead until they are a teenager. So again, IMO, there is no firm rule; but around age 10 is a rough guideline given plenty of experience.
Dear Eric, Hope this email finds you well. I just need a program that helps my bouldering ability to improve. I really need to increase my strength–right now, I can just do eight pull-ups in one time. I would appreciate your advice. – Ghanbari (Iran)
Hello Ghanbari, Yes, you should do some strength training, in addition to climbing a few days per week. If you can only do 8 pull-ups, then what you want to do is 5 sets of 6 pull-ups at the end of every climbing session (3 days per week). Rest for 3 minutes between sets; your goal is a total of 30 total pull-ups. Do this for 4 weeks.
Next you want to do the same workout, but find a way to add 4 kilograms to your body (hang weight from a harness or similar). Do 5 sets of 5 pull-ups with 4 kg added to your body. Do this 3 days per week for 4 weeks; in addition to your regular climbing and other exercises (like core and antagonist training).
Then rest a few days and test yourself to see how many pull-ups you can do in one set. My bet you will have improved significantly, and you’ll feel stronger climbing on the rock. Keep adding weight, as you are able, so that you keep each training set of pull-ups around 5 or 6 reps. Hope this helps!