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Hi Eric, Really enjoy the site and I am looking forward to incorporating your tips so IU can have a banner season in Squamish. I was just wondering what your opinion is of kettlebells in relation to training for bouldering? There is one at the local gym and I was curious if you have any great exercises that I can work on, specifically for core strength? –Greg (Utah)
Hey Greg, Kettlebell training can certainly be beneficial, especially for training joint stability and total core. Kris Hampton has a new Kettle Bell program you may want to check out via his Power Company site. Of course, the majority of your training should be much more specific to climbing–as a boulderer, doing weighted hangboard (and pull-ups) and also some campusing is important. Also, it’s essential to do regular rotator cuff and scapular stabilizer training–important to keep your shoulders healthy through all your training and V-hard climbing!
Hi Eric, I am currently doing an internship at the University of Colorado, Boulder. I graduated with a B.S. in Exercise & Sports Science. I ran in college and have always been interested in training, and the mental, physical and science behind it. I currently work at the Boulder Rock Club as a personal trainer and women’s climbing coach, and I have been applying periodization training to a class I created for women to train with other women. I was at first intimidated to do this as I have been a personal trainer and newer to climbing. The way I laid it out was to hit both sport climbing and bouldering. I started with hypertrophy where we went through volume, during that phase lifted light weights and did preventative exercises. As most women are intimidated to lift this was a safe environment. I then put them through a strength phase where they projected and focused on technique and mental aspects such a falling and trust on ropes. During the strength phase they increased their weight which as increased confidence which I hoped would transfer to confidence climbing. The last phase was focused on power. Bouldering is where we entered for climbing and working on reading before climbing. In the weight room we worked on low reps/sets and high weight. In addition to your thoughts on this training scheme, what advise do you have for someone like me pursuing a career in training outdoor athletes? –Joslynn (Colorado)
Hi Joslynn! Yes, I agree that some weight training is a good thing for women climbers—developing base strength is important, since their movement skills often are better than their relative strength. So beginner-level climbers should do more general training (and frequent climbing), whereas more advanced females can do lesser amount of general training, but more climbing-pecific (like fingerboard, campus board, and such). I think all women climbers should do weighted pull-ups (add enough weight to limit sets to 5 to 8 reps) two or three days per week…and gradually add in some weighted fingerboard hangs and campus training (advanced).
As for career advice—talk to as many people as you can in the industry. Climbing is growing and you might be able to carve out a career just training climbers (in a climbing market like DEN or SLC), however I think it might be better to broaden out your expertise to include other outdoor sports–skiing and golf are two sports that have many weekend warriors with the personal finances to pay for quality coaching.
I’d be happy to talk with you more in person, if our paths ever cross. I’ll be speaking at CWA in CO, the Lander Climbers’ festival in July, Outdoor Retailer in early August, and speaking at the International Rock Climbing Researchers Association annual meeting in Telluride in August.
Dear Eric, One year ago, when I receive your answer about youth training it was like finding “fresh water in the desert.” Since then I’m trying to find a way to build a local wall and to help the kids develop. There is an opportunity for us as family to be in England for the next 6 months in Farnham, the Surrey area. Do you have any recommendations for coaches and places where the kids can receive good training? Here in Bulgaria we have unique places to climb outdoor but I’m not feeling so confident to bring the kids to the rocks without somebody who knows what to do. What do you think? –Iliana (Bulgaria)
Hello Iliana, If you are going to England for 6 months, please try to contact Robin O’Leary—he’s a coach that regularly works with kid climbers. He will be very good working with your kids in a gym setting. You can contact him via Facebook. I hope that your time in England will allow for frequent outdoor climbing as well—as your kids become teenagers, the outdoor climbing becomes very rewarding. When you return to Bulgaria I hope you are able to build a local wall, so your youth climbers can climb and training regularly! Best to you and your family!
Hi Eric, I would like to ask you, why I send so rarely. I know I have problems controlling my mental state. I’m one of the physically strongest girls in my country, but I climb only 7b (after many tries), because I’m very afraid of falling. What can I change? Must I necessarily take risks or just practice brain training? Thank you in advance, Stanislava
Dear Stanislava, It sounds like you are very strong, and can certainly climb harder (and do routes with fewer tries). Confidence is very important, and developing confidence comes from success at climbing routes without fear and to completion. When you climb outside, I suggest you do many easier routes (7a/7a+) that you can on-sight. By doing many easier routes and succeeding quickly, you will learn how to move quickly and confidently up routes. This will build a foundation from which you can then succeed quickly on harder routes. Some people have difficulty, because they are always trying to lead hard routes at their limit—this causes them to hang a lot, grab quick draws, get scared and fill the mind with doubts. So you must avoid this approach. Use what I said above, and do many easier climbing fast and without fear and falling, and do this for several months and you’ll rewire your brain and do much better on harder routes in the months and years to come. Good luck, and let me know how it goes!