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Killer Training Holds for Your Training Wall!
If you are a weekend warrior (like me), then you probably spend almost as much time training on plastic as you do pulling down on real rock. A steep home wall is central to a good training program, and the holds you use play a big role in making your sessions fun and effective.
Obviously it’s good to have a wide variety of holds on your wall, however some shapes are simply better “training holds” than others. To me a good training hold is one that’s easy on the skin (void of sharp edges), easy to grab when climbing powerfully (non-complex), and possesses a useable feature (edge, pocket, pinch) when placed on an overhanging wall. Over the years I’ve created several “training sets” for Nicros that meet the these criteria–my MO is to design shapes that I want for my training wall, and therefore chances are you will like them too! Of course, Nicros has many talented shapers and there are dozens of other sets that you will enjoy training on.
Out of Nicros’ 150-plus sets of holds, here are 35 sets that are optimal for steep-wall training. No doubt there are many other sets that you’ll love climbing on too, but these are the sets that most fit the “training hold” criteria above.
Click here to view Nicros Training Tools and Handhold.
|
SET
|
DESCRIPTION
|
ANGLE
|
SIZE
|
# of HOLDS
|
SHAPER
|
|
Micros #2
|
tiny edges
|
10 – 45
|
S
|
10
|
“team Nicros”
|
|
Micros #3
|
shallow edges
|
20 – 50
|
S
|
10
|
“team Nicros”
|
|
Shakes
|
shallow edges
|
20 – 50
|
M
|
7
|
Josh Helke
|
|
Groovy 60s
|
shallow edges
|
45 – 65
|
M
|
7
|
Josh Helke
|
|
30-deg. crimps
|
shallow edges
|
10 – 40
|
S/M
|
10
|
Eric Hörst
|
|
45-deg. crimps
|
shallow edges
|
20 – 55
|
S
|
10
|
Eric Hörst
|
|
Finesse
|
shallow edges
|
0 – 30
|
M
|
6
|
Andy Raether
|
|
Block Buster
|
shallow edges
|
0 – 30
|
S/M
|
5
|
Andy Raether
|
|
Vice
|
shallow edges
|
20 – 45
|
M
|
4
|
Nic Oklobzija
|
|
Chucks
|
shallow edges
|
10 – 45
|
M
|
5
|
Brian Camp
|
|
EH Edgification
|
medium edges
|
10 – 45
|
M
|
6
|
Eric Hörst
|
|
Pesos
|
medium edges
|
20 – 50
|
M
|
7
|
Andy Raether
|
|
Diff-Tex™ Dunes
|
medium edges
|
0 – 30
|
M
|
5
|
Dan Chancellor
|
|
Cuatro Fabuloso
|
medium edges
|
20 – 45
|
M
|
4
|
Andy Raether
|
|
EH Training Edges
|
medium edges
|
20 – 50
|
S/M
|
10
|
Eric Hörst
|
|
Whitecaps
|
medium edges
|
10 – 45
|
M
|
5
|
Nic Oklobzija
|
|
EH Training Pockets
|
medium pockets
|
20 – 55
|
L
|
10
|
Eric Hörst
|
|
Combat
|
shallow pinches
|
10 – 45
|
M
|
5
|
Nic Oklobzija
|
|
Drumlins
|
pinches/edges
|
20 – 50
|
M
|
5
|
Andy Raether
|
|
Eskers
|
pinches
|
0 – 45
|
M
|
4
|
Andy Raether
|
|
Krushers
|
pinches
|
0 – 45
|
M
|
7
|
Nic Oklobzija
|
|
Glacial Grooves
|
pinches/edges
|
0 – 45
|
M
|
5
|
Andy Raether
|
|
EH Campus 1
|
mix
|
30 – 55
|
M/L
|
10
|
Eric Hörst
|
|
EH Campus 2
|
mix
|
30 – 55
|
M/L
|
10
|
Eric Hörst
|
|
EH Campus 3
|
mix
|
30 – 55
|
M/L
|
10
|
Eric Hörst
|
|
J.E.S.I.
|
mix
|
0 – 45
|
L
|
4
|
Andy Raether
|
|
Threshers
|
medium jug
|
30 – 60
|
M
|
6
|
Jon Connant
|
|
Digital Scales
|
edges/jugs
|
20 – 50
|
M
|
8
|
Nic Oklobzija
|
|
Learning to Fly
|
jugs
|
20 – 50
|
L
|
4
|
Andy Raether
|
|
Lumpy Jugs
|
jugs
|
20 – 50
|
M
|
5
|
G. Westmoreland
|
|
C-Squared
|
jugs
|
20 – 60
|
L
|
5
|
Chris Craft
|
|
Microofs
|
jugs & roofs
|
45 – 90
|
L
|
10
|
Kevin Cieszkowski
|
|
Jugheads
|
jugs
|
10 – 50
|
L
|
10
|
Nate Postma
|
|
Roofs 1
|
killer roofs!
|
45 – 90
|
XL
|
10
|
Nate Postma
|
NOTE: “Angle” are the usuable wall angles (degrees past vertical) for each set. “Size” relates to the diameter and profile of the holds compared to other sets. “Price” is the normal retail price, although we place certain sets on sale each month.
Copyright 2008 Eric J. Hörst. All rights reserved.