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In taking this assessment, it’s best to read each question once and then immediately select an answer. Don’t read anything extra into the questions and resist the common tendency to cheat-up on your scores. Select the answer that most accurately describes your current abilities and modus operandi.
Evaluate Your Technical Skills
1. My footwork and overall technique deteriorates during the hardest part of a climb.
1—almost always, 2—often, 3—about half the time, 4—occasionally, 5—seldom or never
2. Cracks, slabs, and roofs feel hard for the grade compared to a similarly graded face climb.
1—almost always, 2—often, 4—about half the time, 4—occasionally, 5—seldom or never
3. I have difficulty finding mid-route rest positions and shakeouts.
1—almost always, 2—often, 3—about half the time, 4—occasionally, 5—seldom or never
4. On the typical climb, I feel like much of my bodyweight is hanging on my arms.
1—almost always, 2—often, 3—about half the time, 4—occasionally, 5—seldom or never
5. On overhanging routes and roofs, I have difficulty finding the optimal body position or keeping my feet from “cutting loose.”
1—almost always, 2—often, 3—about half the time, 4—occasionally, 5—seldom or never
Analysis
Add up your scores for each question, then use the scale below to assess your level of climbing experience.
23 – 25: You possess excellent technical skills!
20 – 22: Your technical skills are above average.
15 – 19: Your technical skills are near average; however, the next level is attainable given a focused effort to improve in weak areas.
10 – 14: You possess some fundamental flaws in climbing technique—make improving technique your top priority. Consider employing a coach to provide technical instruction and tips for improvement.
5 – 9: You are at the beginning of the learning curve, so rapid gains in ability will result from a consistent schedule of climbing.
Set Goals
Review questions that scored three or less, and then set a specific goal for improvement in each area. Write down what actions you plan to take along with a timeframe for attaining this goal. For example, if you scored three or fewer points on question 1, make it a goal to constantly focus on your footwork and to resist the tendency to muscle through difficult moves.
Evaluate Your Mental Skills
1. I visualize myself successfully climbing the route before I leave the ground.
1—seldom or never, 2—occasionally, 3—about half the time, 4—often, 5—almost always
2. I get anxious, tight, and hesitant as I climb into crux sequences.
1—almost always, 2—often, 3—about half the time, 4—occasionally, 5—seldom or never
3. I miss hidden holds or blow a known sequence.
1—almost always, 2—often, 3—about half the time, 4—occasionally, 5—seldom or never
4. I make excuses for why I might fail on a route before I even begin to climb.
1—almost always, 2—often, 3—about half the time, 4—occasionally, 5—seldom or never
5. When lead climbing a “safe route”, I push myself to the complete limit and, if I fall, I fall trying.
1—seldom or never, 2—occasionally, 3—about half the time, 4—often, 5—almost always
Analysis
Add up your scores for each question, then use the scale below to assess your level of climbing experience.
23 – 25: You possess excellent mental skills!
20 – 22: Your mental skills are above average.
15 – 19: Your mental skills are near average; however, significant gains are attainable given a commitment to mental training.
10 – 14: Your limited mental skills are an Achilles Heal that’s sabotaging your climbing performance. Desire and discipline to improve in this area will yield huge breakthroughs in climbing ability.
5 – 9: Your weak mental skills will improve rapidly given a regular schedule of climbing and a willingness to stretch your boundaries and challenge your fears.
Set Goals
Review questions that scored three or less, and then set a specific goal for improvement in each area. Write down what actions you plan to take along with a timeframe for attaining this goal. For example, if you scored three or fewer points in question 1, commit to the goal of inspecting and visualizing every route before leaving the ground.
Check back each month for a new self-assessment–you can compare your scores to previous month’s assessment, thus enabling you to identify the two or three areas most holding you back (these would be the lower scoring assessments). Similarly, survey your answers question-by-question to identify specific weaknesses that should become the bull’s eye of your training program.
Copyright 2009 Eric J. Hörst. All rights reserved.