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In taking this assessment, it’s best to read each question once and then immediately select an answer. Don’t read anything extra into the questions and resist the common tendency to cheat-up on your scores. Select the answer that most accurately describes your current abilities and modus operandi.
Evaluate Your Level of General Conditioning
1. How many pounds (body fat or excessively bulky muscles) do you estimate you are from your ideal climbing weight?
1—more than twenty, 2—ten to twenty, 3—five to ten, 4—just a few, 5—zero
2. How far could you jog (modest pace steady running) without stopping?
1—less than a half-mile, 2—one-half to one mile, 3—one to two miles, 4—three to five miles, 5—more than five miles
3. How many pull-ups can you do in a single set?
1—zero to two, 2—three to seven, 3—eight to twelve, 4—thirteen to twenty, 5—more than twenty
4. How many push-ups can you do in a single set?
1—zero to four, 2—five to ten, 3— eleven to twenty, 4—twenty-one to thirty, 5—more than thirty
5. How many abdominal crunches can you do in a single set?
1—less than ten, 2—ten to twenty, 3—twenty-one to forty, 4—fifty to seventy-five, 5—more than seventy-five
Analysis
Add up your scores for each question, then use the scale below to assess your level of climbing experience.
23 – 25: You possess excellent general physical conditioning!
20 – 22: Your general conditioning is above average.
15 – 19: Your general conditioning is near average. Improvement in this area will facilitate better movement and reduce injury risk.
10 – 14: Your general conditioning is below average and it is undoubtedly limiting your climbing ability.
5 – 9: You possess poor general conditioning. It’s paramount that you improve in this area before engaging in a regular schedule of climbing.
Set Goals
Review questions that scored three or less, and then set a specific goal for improvement in each area. Write down what actions you plan to take along with a timeframe for attaining this goal. For example, if you scored three or fewer points in question 1, set a weight-loss goal and commit to a regular schedule of aerobic activity.
Evaluate Your Sport-Specific Conditioning
1. On overhanging routes with large holds, I pump out quickly and need to hang on the rope.
1—almost always, 2—often, 3—about half the time, 4—occasionally, 5—seldom or never
2. I have difficulty hanging on small, necessary-to-use holds.
1—almost always, 2—often, 3—about half the time, 4—occasionally, 5—seldom or never
3. I get deep forearm pumps that are hard to recovery from.
1—almost always, 2—often, 3—about half the time, 4—occasionally, 5—seldom or never
4. Given a marginal mid-climb rest, I can shakeout and recover enough to complete the route.
1—seldom or never, 2—occasionally, 3—about half the time, 4—often, 5—almost always
5. My maximum bouldering ability is:
1—V0 or V1, 2—V2 to V3, 3—V4 to V5, 4—V6 to V7, 5—V8 or above
Analysis
Add up your scores for each question and then use the scale below to assess your level of sport-specific conditioning.
23 – 25: You possess excellent sport-specific conditioning!
20 – 22: Your sport-specific conditioning is above average.
15 – 19: Your sport-specific conditioning is near average; however, a program of targeted training will quickly elevate you to the next level.
10 – 14: Your sport-specific conditioning is a major constraint in climbing performance. If you are a novice, continue general conditioning for another year or so. Experienced climbers will realize significant gains in strength and ability given a dedicated training program.
5 – 9: You possess poor sport-specific conditioning. Engage in a general training program for at least one year before initiating a sport-specific conditioning program.
Set Goals
Review questions that scored 3 or less, and then set a specific goal for improvement in each area. Write down what actions you plan to take along with a timeframe for attaining this goal. For example, if you scored three or fewer points on question 5, make it a goal to go bouldering more frequently to benefit from the targeted training it provides.
Check back next month for a new self-assessment–you can compare your scores to previous month’s assessment, thus enabling you to identify which area(s) is most holding you back (these would be the lower scoring assessments). Similarly, survey your answers question-by-question to identify specific weaknesses that should become the bull’s eye of your training program.
Copyright 2009 Eric J. Hörst. All rights reserved.