Video: Effective Forearm Antagonist Training for Climbers

If you climb regularly—and even more so if you doing hangboard and/or campus training—then it’s essential that you train the muscles of the lateral forearm which act as antagonist stabilizers to the forearm flexor (agonist) muscles used in gripping the rock. Many climbers do not train the antagonists, and the long-term result is often pain and in some cases lateral tendinosis. In this video you will learn the two best exercises for training the antagonist muscles in a climbing-specific way (hint: the exercise is NOT extending your fingers against a rubber band or similar device!).

Still not sold on the exercises demonstrated in the video? Get this: In addition to reducing injury risk, strengthening your antagonist stabilizer muscles will improve your crimp and pinch mechanics, thus increasing your finger and pinch strength! The bottom line: DO THESE EXERCISES!