Training Center

Round 30

How to reconcile contradictory information on the web?Q: Hi Eric, I've read a lot of contradictory information on training on the web. For example, is... Read More

Round 29

Do you have some tips for learning to lead climb indoors? Q: I'm learning to lead climb at the gym and need beta on how... Read More

Round 28

What kind of training can I do on rest days from climbing?|Q: I get really bored on rest days and would like an activity that... Read More

Round 27

How to enhance training to break plateau?Q: I haven't improved since 2002, and I want to increase my training. I will begin adding HIT to... Read More

Round 26

Q: When is the best time to train antagonist muscles; the day after climbing (i.e. a rest day from climbing) or on a climbing day?... Read More

Round 25

How long should I rest between training exercises?Q: How long should I rest between training exercises and climbing repetitions? -- Eddi (Levanger, Norway) A: Amount... Read More

Round 24

Can you suggest a good climbing camp?Q: Hi Eric, I read your book Training for Climbing and I think is the best book in the... Read More

Round 23

Is it better to train Fingerboard Repeaters with straight or bent arms?Q: Is it better to train Fingerboard Repeaters with straight or bent arms? -... Read More

Round 22

How long to let A2 pulley injury heal before beginning HIT Workout?Q: I have a recently injured A2 pulley, but am still able to boulder... Read More

Round 21

What can I do to improve my finger strength?Q: Right now I train everyday with pull-ups, Frenchies, and the hangboard (three times a day except... Read More