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Q&A

Round 40

Q: I am a solid 5.11 climber, but I’ve done two 5.12s in the gym by working them over and over. What is the best... Read More

Round 39

Q: My weight is right around 180 pounds and I just can't lose any more weight. I eat great and run, not to mention climb.... Read More

Round 38

Q: I've been climbing for about 5 years and am stuck in the 5.10 range. How long would you anticipate it should take a 5.10a... Read More

Round 37

Q: I'm just beginning to climb at age 28, and I can only get to the climbing centre once a week. What training methods can... Read More

Round 31

How do I devise a program to build maximum power and endurance?Q: How do I devise a program to build maximum power and maximum endurance,... Read More

Round 30

How to reconcile contradictory information on the web?Q: Hi Eric, I've read a lot of contradictory information on training on the web. For example, is... Read More

Round 29

Do you have some tips for learning to lead climb indoors? Q: I'm learning to lead climb at the gym and need beta on how... Read More

Round 28

What kind of training can I do on rest days from climbing?|Q: I get really bored on rest days and would like an activity that... Read More

Round 27

How to enhance training to break plateau?Q: I haven't improved since 2002, and I want to increase my training. I will begin adding HIT to... Read More

Round 26

Q: When is the best time to train antagonist muscles; the day after climbing (i.e. a rest day from climbing) or on a climbing day?... Read More